Paris Jour 5 – Céline AW16/17

▽ Statuesque utilitarian 

The mannish silhouettes at Céline didn’t overshadow the lean, statuesque but slouchy feel of this collection. There are rumours that Phoebe Philo might leave the brand after an abundance of departures from head positions in other fashion houses and it will probably be very hard to replace her. Philo injects a nutral coolness to the brand, one that is very hard to come across in other brands. The brilliance of Phoebe’s work for Céline is that it can be also used to inspire solutions for modern living and inspires confidence, strength, pride, straightforwardness, power, discretion, comfort and femininity.

“From the fluid floppy flares that pooled on the floor entirely covering flat sandals, to the languid mannish shirting that she built her vision of Celine on, this time they were crisper, longer in length, with elongated collars and longer cuffs; to those weighty shiny silk satin dresses layered over trousers, to her various re-workings of the trench in utilitarian stiff crunchy gabardine, offset with black belts, left untied” (, 2016).

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